When beef stew is in the oven, all’s right with the world, and beef Bourguignon is the best beef stew known to man. Like most stews, this one may be prepared ahead at almost every step of the way. The beef is browned, then simmered in red wine, beef stock, herbs, and bits of bacon; the sauce is thickened lightly, and the stew is garnished with sautéed mushrooms and small cooked onions. You can cook the garniture the day before at any free moment, brown the meat, complete the stewing, or complete the whole dish and refrigerate or freeze it. Boeuf bourguignon actually seems to gain in flavor when made in advance; the meat and the sauce blend into even more glorious harmony.

BEEF CUTS. You may use any stewing cuts of beef for this, but you will have more attractive servings with lean, boneless chunks from the round (hind leg) or rump, or from the chuck (shoulder). Two recommended cuts from the chuck are the “tender,” a cone-shaped muscle about 12 inches long that lies along the ridge of the shoulder blade opposite the blade steak, and the “flanken,” or boned chuck rib meat.

• A 6-ounce chunk of unsmoked, unsalted lean pork belly (fresh bacon), or fat and lean pork butt, or salt pork, or lean bacon (pork or bacon is traditional, but may be omitted)
• Olive oil or cooking oil
• A large skillet
• 3 lbs. lean stewing beef cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks and dried on paper towels
• A 4-quart flameproof casserole or baking dish
• 3 cups full-bodied, young red wine such as Mâcon, Burgundy, or Mountain Red
• About 2 cups beef bouillon
• 1 Tb tomato paste
• 2 to 3 cloves mashed garlic
• 1/2 tsp thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt as necessary

(Preheat oven to 325 degrees.)

Cut the bacon or pork into 1 × 1/4-inch sticks; these are called lardons. If you are using smoked bacon or salt pork, place in a saucepan with 2 quarts of cold water, simmer for 10 minutes, rinse in cold water, drain and dry; this is to remove the smoky taste from bacon or the salt from salt pork. You will have about 3/4 cup. Brown the lardons lightly in a frying pan with a little oil, to render out the fat; this you will use for browning the beef.

Pour the rendered fat into a large skillet, adding a little oil if necessary, to film pan by 1/16 inch. Set over moderately high heat. When almost smoking, brown the beef, a few pieces at a time so as not to crowd the pan; turn beef frequently to brown all sides. Place the beef, as it is browned, in casserole or baking dish.

Pour browning fat out of skillet, pour in the red wine and scrape up into it all the flavorful brown bits, then pour wine into casserole. Add the browned lardons to the casserole, and enough beef bouillon almost to cover the meat; stir in the rest of the ingredients and bring casserole to simmer on top of the stove. Cover the casserole and set in lower third of oven. Regulate heat so liquid simmers slowly for 2½ to 3 hours, or longer, until beef is tender when pierced with a fork. (You may simmer the stew on top of the stove if you wish, or use an electric skillet or kettle.)

The Onion and Mushroom Garniture

Do these while the beef is simmering, or at any convenient time.

• About 1 lb. fresh mushrooms
• 1/2 Tb oil
• 1½ Tb butter
• ¼ tsp salt
• 18 to 24 small white onions (1-inch diameter)
• 1 Tb butter
• ½ tsp salt
• Water

Trim mushroom stems, drop mushrooms in a large basin of cold water, swish about for a moment, lift out into a colander, and dry on a towel. Cut the caps into quarters, and the stems on the bias. Heat oil and butter in a skillet until butter foam begins to subside, add the mushrooms, and toss over high heat for 3 or 4 minutes to brown the mushrooms very lightly. Remove to a side dish until needed, then toss with the salt.

Drop the onions into boiling water, bring rapidly back to the boil for several seconds to loosen the skins. Drain. Peel carefully so as not to disturb the onion layers; to prevent onions from bursting while cooking, pierce a cross ¼ inch deep in the root ends. Place in one layer in a heavy saucepan; add the butter and salt and enough water to come halfway up. Cover and simmer very slowly for 20 to 30 minutes, or until onions are tender. Set aside, saving cooking liquid.

Sauce and Serving

• 3 Tb softened butter
• 3 Tb flour

When the beef is done, set cover askew and drain the cooking liquid into a saucepan. You should have about 2½ cups; if liquid has boiled down too much, add a little beef bouillon. Skim off fat, bring liquid to the simmer, and taste very carefully for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as necessary. Cream the butter and flour in a small bowl with a rubber spatula, to make a smooth paste. Pour in several spoonfuls of beef-cooking liquid and blend with a wire whip, then pour this mixture into the beef liquid. Pour in the onion-cooking juices and bring liquid to the simmer, stirring. This is now your sauce.

Add the mushrooms and onions to the beef, pour on the sauce, cover and simmer slowly for 5 minutes to blend flavors, swirling casserole to baste meat and vegetables with sauce. The dish is now done. (If you are not serving immediately, uncover casserole; when cool, cover, refrigerate, and reheat later.)

Serve the boeuf bourguignon in its casserole, or arrange on a hot platter surrounded, if you wish, with boiled potatoes, noodles, or rice, and decorated with parsley. Accompany with hot French bread, buttered peas or a tossed salad, and the same red wine you used for the cooking.

Excerpted from THE FRENCH CHEF COOKBOOK by Julia Child. Copyright © 1968 by Julia Child. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher